Earlier this April, PUTIEN restaurant founder Mr Fong Chi Chung hosted media and social influencers from Singapore, China, Hong Kong, the Philippines, and Malaysia to experience the roots of his restaurant’s beloved dishes. It wasn’t just a trip. It was a hands-on journey into the soul of Putian, a coastal city in Fujian province, China.
PUTIEN, which today boasts 17 outlets in Singapore and another 90 across China, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines, serves up seasonal ingredients like Duotou clams, yellow croaker fish, and sun-ripened loquats, all sourced directly from farms like the ones we visited.
Duotou Clams – A seasonal delight from Putian
There’s something almost poetic about standing in the tidal flats of Putian, where the earth itself feels alive underfoot. Here, in the rich black mud of Duotou village, one of China’s most prized ingredients quietly grows – the Duotou clam.
Unlike your typical clams, these little treasures aren’t just harvested; they’re nurtured. Planted by hand in nutrient-packed mud that’s taken centuries to form, Duotou clams spend their lives absorbing the minerals and the rhythm of the tides. Locals say it takes patience to raise them, and even more patience to harvest them. And those who have experienced it first-hand would attest to it. Some say as they pull out these prized clams, they try to escape and sometimes the clams break apart. No giant machines roaring in; every clam is dug up by hand, often buried 30 centimetres deep, to avoid damaging the delicate environment.
The result? A plump, juicy clam with a clean, sweet flavour that tastes like a whisper from the sea itself. It’s little wonder that PUTIEN restaurants in Singapore and beyond have turned this humble shellfish into a culinary star. Head down to a PUTIEN restaurant now as it is Duotou Clam season in Singapore. Find out what’s in store here.
Visiting the clam beds felt like being let in on a delicious secret. It’s a fleeting experience too — Duotou clams are seasonal, making their way onto menus only for a few precious months each year. Freshly steamed or cooked into delicate broths, they’re proof that good things truly do come to those who wait… and those willing to get a little muddy.
Fishing for Gold – Visiting a Yellow Croaker Farm in Huanghua Island
If Duotou clams are Putian’s hidden gems, then the yellow croaker is its crown jewel, shimmering, slippery, and utterly prized. After leaving the muddy flats behind, I found myself at a coastal fish farm in Huanghua Island where rows of nets floated lazily on the sea’s surface, bobbing like tiny flags in the breeze.
Yellow croakers aren’t just any fish. In Putian, they’re practically royalty. Revered for their buttery flesh and delicate flavour, they’ve been a staple on celebratory tables for generations. But they’re also notoriously fussy, wild stocks have dwindled over the years, so sustainable farming here is as much a labour of love as it is necessity.
We were told how they’re raised carefully from juveniles, fed a premium diet, and monitored closely to maintain their flavour and texture. No shortcuts. No funny business. Just a slow, steady patience that echoes the Putian way of life. In fact, these shimmering fishes are extremely delicate. Once they are lifted up in nets from the water, we hear they die very quickly. And they have to be harvested at night to offer the golden colour. During the day, they are less yellow and are usually white.
Later, tasting the croaker cooked simply — lightly steamed with a dash of soy — was like tasting the essence of the sea itself. Sweet, tender, and astonishingly pure. It’s no exaggeration to say the yellow croaker is a bite-sized reminder of why food from Putian tastes so soulful: because it’s born from care, patience, and an unwavering respect for nature.
Pearls of the Sea: Exploring the Oyster Farms near Huanghua Island
Our journey continued out to sea, towards the floating oyster farms near Huanghua Island, where Putian’s maritime heritage shines brightest. Vast buoys dotted the coastal waters, gently rocking with the tides. Here, oysters are raised the old-fashioned way: nurtured by clean, mineral-rich waters and harvested by hand.
Farmers work tirelessly, tending to their molluscs with the same patience and respect that has sustained these farms for generations. Tasting one fresh from the sea was a revelation. Briny, sweet, and impossibly fresh, these oysters captured the pure essence of the ocean. It’s no wonder PUTIEN proudly serves them when in season, sourcing directly from farms like these ensures the flavours stay true, and the traditions live on.
Where the Earth Crystals Form: The Salt Plains of Putian
You can smell the salt plains before you see them. Rhat crisp, briny tang hanging in the air, teasing the senses like a sea breeze on a hot afternoon. Stretching out like a giant, cracked mirror under the sun, the salt fields of Putian shimmer with quiet beauty, and a kind of ancient patience.
Here, salt isn’t just scooped up from seawater and called a day. Oh no, it’s coaxed, nurtured, and harvested by hand, using techniques that go back generations. The fields are carefully flooded, then left to evaporate under the scorching sun. What’s left behind are delicate crystals. Not mass-produced table salt, but mineral-rich flakes with a briny complexity that makes chefs and foodies swoon.
Walking across the plains was like stepping into a time machine. Workers, sun-hatted and surefooted, raked the crystals into neat, glistening piles. Each glint of salt felt like a tiny trophy of labour and sun, the kind of simple luxury you only truly appreciate once you’ve seen the effort behind it.
And when we finally sprinkled some of that freshly harvested salt over local seafood, it wasn’t just seasoning — it was Putian itself on the plate: pure, honest, and sparkling with pride.
Golden Bites of Sunshine: Loquat Farming in Putian
After the briny tang of the salt plains, our journey took a sweeter turn. Quite literally, into the lush, leafy loquat orchards of Pingpan Village in Putian. If you’ve never tasted a loquat fresh off the tree, let me tell you: you’ve been missing out. It’s like a love child between a mango and an apricot, with a dash of floral sweetness thrown in for good measure. But they say you have to leave it overnight after harvesting to taste an even sweeter fruit.
The loquat trees in Pipa Mountain stood proud and heavy with fruit, their waxy green leaves whispering in the breeze. Under the spring sun, the plump yellow orbs glowed like tiny lanterns. Harvesting them was a gentle affair. Loquats bruise easily, so the local farmers pick them by hand, cradling them as carefully as newborn kittens.
Biting into one was pure magic. Peeling off the skin gives way to juicy, honeyed flesh that somehow managed to be refreshing and indulgent at the same time. It’s easy to see why locals cherish loquats not just for their taste, but also for their supposed health benefits. They are packed with antioxidants.
Standing there, sticky-fingered and sun-drenched, I realised loquat farming here isn’t about chasing mass production. It’s about preserving flavour, tradition, and a deep-rooted respect for the rhythm of the seasons, much like everything else in this quietly extraordinary corner of China.
A priceless visit to Putian, China
Wandering through Putian’s clam beds, fish farms, salt plains, and loquat orchards, one thing becomes abundantly clear: every ingredient here is a labour of love. And that love doesn’t just stay tucked away in this quiet coastal town. It travels, finding its way onto plates at PUTIEN restaurants across Singapore, Asia, and beyond.
When you sit down to a bowl of PUTIEN’s signature Duotou clam soup, you’re tasting centuries of tradition and the muddy footprints of farmers who still harvest by hand. That tender yellow croaker in your steamed fish dish? It’s the product of careful, sustainable farming off Putian’s coast. The delicate oyster and ezMedia ven the pinch of salt seasoning a delicate stir-fry could well be a crystal born from these sun-baked plains.
What PUTIEN does so well, and what visiting Putian makes you appreciate even more, is the respect for origin. There’s no rushing nature here, no cutting corners. Every ingredient tells a story of patience, pride, and authenticity, and PUTIEN’s chefs simply let those stories shine through with honest, restrained cooking.
In a world obsessed with fast and flashy, dining at PUTIEN is a reminder that true luxury often lies in the simplest things. A perfectly cooked clam, a sun-ripened loquat, a fish that tastes of the sea breeze where it grew up. It’s Putian, on a plate. And now, having seen it all firsthand, it tastes even sweeter.
After a week of indulging in authentic Putian cuisine in China, I came home and celebrated my birthday with a cosy family meal at PUTIEN in NEX, bringing the comfort full circle.
