It was a humid afternoon, after a heavy pour. The aroma of fresh grass and chirping birds welcomed me into a black and white bungalow known as Lewin Terrace near the base of Fort Canning, leaving the bustling city and honking cars behind. Little did I know, this was only the beginning of a journey – a journey deep into the beauty of Niigata perfecture‘s exceptional produce.
Helmed by Executive Chef Matsumoto Keisuke, whose passion for French classical cuisine intertwines with his love for Japanese flavours, seafood and agriculture, the restaurant has won the hearts of discerning diners with its unique Japanese-French cuisine. Which is why, it made perfect sense to have him showcase the wonders hidden in this under-explored west coast of Japan’s Honshu island.
For lunch, he presents an exquisite 4-course menu (S$68++) with each dish detailing and complimenting the rich produce from the prefecture. The meal is paired with a drink unique to the area, their Niigata Le Lectier pear wines.
Le Lectier Pear Wine
The Le Lectier trees were first brought from France in 1903 by ambitious farmers of Niigata. Little did they know, the salubrious effects of the Shinanogawa River transformed these pears into a delicacy. Their soft, mellow fragrance and smooth texture are best in Fall, when they are harvested. The rest of the year? We have bottles of their refreshing wine. It is better served slightly warmed than chilled, as the signature fragrance starts to perfume our senses. While Lewin Terrace has an impressive wine list, this is a very delicate compliment to the dishes I am about to introduce.
Starter
Looking deceptively simple, the starter blew me away. The firm slices of horse mackerel were dressed with a ginger sauce made with a salmon fish sauce, complimenting its fattiness and delicate taste. The flavours danced elegantly between the sweet and sour tomatoes and the crunch of the Niigata juzen nasu (round eggplant) marinated simply with olive oil and herbs from Northern France.
Three bites in, I realised there was another component tying the dish together. Beneath this colour plating is a rice and potato mash scented with truffle oil, reminiscent of a soft cheese. Chef Matsumoto has just introduced one of Niigata’s most important crop – the Koshihikari rice – in the dish, and it took a few inquisitive minds to figure it out. Everyone at the table were impressed with the surprise, and was warming up to what else he had to offer.
Soup
Japan’s Black Ivory Shell is known for its distinct coastal scent and chewy crunch. Usually savored raw, Chef Matsumoto brings out its flavour even more with a dash of black pepper and a Spanish-inspired garlic soup. It is complimented with some of the city’s champignon mushrooms and kurumafu (wheat gluten) previously soaked in a sweet stock – giving this dish the umami flavour I can’t seem to get enough of.
Main
Without a doubt, the main dish took my breath away. Chef Matsumoto has brought justice to the prized Koshihikari rice (known as the best grain in Japan). Packed into a patty, the chewy grains brushed with soy sauce matched the crunchy and rich yet sweet flavours of the kurosaki chamame (hailed as the King of Edamame).
It gets even better when served the Amadai (tilefish), which has been salted and air dried to concentrate the flavours. Rather than simply pan-frying it, Chef choose to grill it with the scales intact. This gave the dish an extra crunch, contrasting against the soft, succulent bites of fish and heartwarming broth.
Have it all together, and it would instantly transport you to a traditional ryokan (inn) during Niigata’s summer season. Needless to say, I cleaned the bowl, thinking wishfully I would get another serving.
Dessert
The meal ends with a bang as the servers brought to me one of the best desserts to showcase how juicy and sweet Japanese peaches are. I caught of a whiff of its aroma, enhanced further with the sprinkle of the earthy yet tangy Sansho pepper.
Time flew as I frantically devoured this dish. The kaffle lime and yogurt matched the peaches, making it a refreshing end to the course. It was almost like the Italians, who finish their meals with a shot of limoncello as a digestif.
Many of us are used to the concepts of supermarket fairs when it comes to showcasing food and produce traditional to a region. In fact, every time Takashimaya or Isetan has a fair, you will definitely find me there. But, what Chef Matsumoto offers is a gastronomic journey with the best of what Niigata prefecture, from its oceans to its fields, and his mastery of French culinary techniques honed in some of France’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Expect all the flavours you’ve come to know and love about Japan, elevated.
The dishes will be available during dinner as a la carte. Diners can also call in earlier for a Niigata prefecture themed omakase dinner.
Lewin Terrace
Till 11 August 2016
Lunch: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM
Dinner: 6:30 PM – 11:00 PM
21 Lewin Terrace
Singapore 179290
(Access is through the red gates left of Singapore Philatelic Museum at 23-B Coleman Street, Singapore 179807, where the main entrance is located up the flight of stairs)
+63 6333 9905
Booking via website
